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Onelastcast Offline
50cc
 
Posts: 13
Join Date: Nov 2008
69' Handlebar Knobs frozen - 11-24-2008, 09:12 PM

Hi

Break down knobs are frozen. I sprayed pentrating oil over the last few days with no luck. I plan on changing them so not concerned if it trash the rubber. Cant get any kind of torque on them so i was wondering if I cut the rubber portion out will there be enough of a bolt there for me to wrench on? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Frank
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hornetgod's Avatar
hornetgod Offline
120cc
 
Posts: 588
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lemoore, CA. (Central California)
11-24-2008, 10:32 PM

I used a strap wrench on mine. It worked like a charm.


Growing Up: 1971 CT70HKO Candy Topaz Orange
Currently: 1970 CT70HKO Candy Emerald Green
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XSIVE Offline
120cc
 
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Location: Idaho
11-24-2008, 11:20 PM

Cover with cloth and use a Pipe Wrench!


1971 HKO Metallic Green
1974 K3 Candy Topaz Orange
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Onelastcast Offline
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Strap wrench - 11-24-2008, 11:36 PM

Used a strap wrench and snapped them both off. Thankfully there is enough bolt showing at the bar ends that I get get a vice grip on. Have both end soaking in pentrating oil. Wish I had a torch to heat them up as well!!
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ez50 Offline
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Posts: 118
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Location: M'ville,IA
11-24-2008, 11:44 PM

You might want to squirt some pen. oil inside the bars to get @ them from the inside too. I've broken a bolt off before. Seems like you're patient to get them.
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ckyle29 Offline
120cc
 
Posts: 318
Join Date: Aug 2005
11-24-2008, 11:49 PM

Get a spray can of PB Blaster at your local auto parts store. Best stuff I've ever found for loosening rusted bolts.

If that doesn't loosen it, you will probably break the bolt off. Don't ask me how I know .
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Mutineer Offline
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Posts: 28
Join Date: Aug 2008
11-25-2008, 05:59 PM

Had a bolt broken off and an oxy-acetylene torch was the way out for me, just don't put too much heat in it and burn it up, and watch the chrome!
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racerx Offline
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11-25-2008, 07:23 PM

You're past the easy solution point. I've had very little luck using penetrants of any kind once the bolts are rust-welded in place. No surprise the knobs broke, I've broken them off by hand. Rusty bolts are stronger than plastic.

If you're looking to preserve what's left of the original chrome, then forget about using heat. You cannot get the bolts hot enough to do any good without burning the chrome. Use a pair of vise grips and twist `em out as best you can. If they unscrew, then you're home free. If they break off, then you'll need to drill out what remains & re-tap the holes. The only other options are to cut the stud ends, releasing the bars from the top tree, then applying heat to unscrew them & having the bars rechromed, (the steel will need to be heated about 900 degrees past the melting point of aluminum) or just replace them with new bars. That last option usually gives the best results and lowest cost. It would be rare that the same conditions that caused the handlebar knobs to rust in place would also allow the original chrome to survive pit-free...assuming that yours are in the tiny minority that have not been bent.
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Onelastcast Offline
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Update - 11-25-2008, 10:05 PM

Tried the vise grip route and broke the bolts flush. Drilled the bolt out and the easy out broke off. Yikes! I'm going to let them soak yet again and see what is store over the weekend. The bar are absolutely straight so thats why I'm trying to save them. I have a friend with a machine shop and may get him involved. I agree that heat would then require more expense and not sure its worth it. The bars are not at all pitted and really are in good shape. They could use a re-chrome but I'm only trying to get it in great shape not concourse. I've got the winter to work out all the issues but this has been a pain the the butt. More to follow.

Frank
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Grant's trail Offline
70cc
 
Posts: 85
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Huntington Beach Ca.
11-26-2008, 02:21 AM

I made a fixture to drill out the broken bolts in handle bars its a chunk of alum. with a 7/8's hole or .875 about 1 in deep then a tap hole the size for a 8mm bolt thread in the end maybe your machine shop can turn one up for you. you slide the 7/8 hole end over the handlebar and run your tap drill through the other side, which lines it up true so you only drill the bolt not the handlebar. then retap. since you have a broken easyout in there the only thing I can think of is to drill small holes around the easyout get it out drill out the bung in the handlebar with the threads weld in a new bung with a tap hole in the center and retap it. Its going to be a tricky job, and as Racer said you might be ahead buying new handlebars, just depends if you can get the broken easy -out, out. and I can under stand getting it in good running cond, with the bars you have. If you want to borrow the fixture I have to drill out your broken bolt thats fine you pay shipping both ways and send it back when your done. Hope this helps Grant
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