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horimono Offline
50cc
 
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Chain size - 11-18-2008, 12:32 PM

I have a 1974 honda trail 70 and have no chain...Now I want to go get a length of chain and master link to make my own does anyone know what size of chain to get??
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hornetgod Online
120cc
 
Posts: 1,131
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lemoore, CA. (Central California)
11-18-2008, 12:38 PM

CT70KO HAD A 15T FRONT AND 38T REAR WITH 88L CHAIN CT70HKO AND HK1 HAD A 14T FRONT 45T REAR AND 92L CHAIN THE REST TOOK A 15 FRONT AND 35T REAR WITH A 86L CHAIN.

Here's a link to an excellent website to buy CT70 parts.
DID HD CHAIN AND SPROCKET SET (DID/HD/C&S)


Growing Up: 1970 CT70HKO Candy Topaz Orange
Currently: 1970 CT70HKO Candy Emerald Green
Restoring: Grandfather's 1973 CT70K2 Candy Topaz Orange
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Mutineer Offline
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Join Date: Aug 2008
11-19-2008, 12:12 PM

I went to the local Honda dealer and told my story, they had 2 options- a roller bearing type (This was a couple months ago so I might have the term wrong) that was about $60 and a standard type chain for $13. I opted to save a few bucks and bought the cheapie. It was about 18 inches too long so I cut it to exact size with a Dremel grinding wheel and a hole punch and put it on and went on down the road. I've seen some comments in the threads that you should put new sprockets in when you put a new chain on, but I only put a new front sprocket on and it seems to work fine. I guess the rear sprocket wasn't too overly worn, we'll see how it wears.
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racerx Offline
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11-19-2008, 02:33 PM

A detailed explanation could get lengthy, so I'll try to cover just the high points. $60 is way over the top for any #420 chain, the best made (Iris, D.I.D.) retails in the the low $40s. They are made to tighter tolerances and using tougher (read:"more expensive") alloys. These are true roller-type chains, i.e. the individual rollers spin freely. They'll handle more than the 8hp rating of standard #420 and last many times longer if you have enough power to cruise at 45-50mph+. In your place, I'd have gone for the cheap stuff, too. It normally takes 2000-3000 miles to realize a payback on high-end #420 chain.

As for when to replace chains & sprockets, it's true that a worn chain will cause rapid sprocket wear and vice versa. If your sprockets are in good condition, then no need to replace them. If the sprocket teeth are worn to sharp points or, worse yet, have taken on a lean, they're toast. Normally, chains wear much faster than sprockets. Just replace the chain when it's worn to the point that the links just begin to not seat properly and you'll get thousands of miles from the sprockets. Learning how to judge chain wear takes a little experience.

For a stock bike, basic inexpensive chain should be fine. Cleanliness is the biggest wear factor. Start out by removing the sticky factory lube and replacing it with a dry-type. Any bike dealer should sell aerosols such as graphite-bearing lube or "chain wax". Occasional application will flush away sand/grit. If you're really motivated, completely degrease the chain and re-lube with molten paraffin submersion. It's a hassle, but seals the chain quite nicely and won't turn your chain into "shake & bake" the first time you go offroading.
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