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ID Tag removal and rivets for painting -
02-20-2008, 10:57 PM
Hi All,
Is it customary when painting a frame to remove the ID tag during paint prep? I am making a complete color change, so that may make a difference in the answer. How did you remove the tiny rivets and where did you find replacements? Thanks, Clark |
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(#2)
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02-21-2008, 01:04 AM
Leaving the VIN tag in place is not the right way to go about refinishing. Between masking, media blasting, painting & sanding, the odds of damaging the tag are high anyway. Removing the VIN tag isn't the easiest task either. If you have a surgeon's touch, sometimes it is possible to lift the drive screws, using a single-edge blade, just enough to pull them with miniature Vise-grips. Most times, you'll have to carefully file the heads flat and drill them out. Difficulty-wise, it's about on par with the blade trick but the odds of success are a lot better. Lastly, you should heat the steering tube, gently, from the inside using a heat gun. This will soften the adhesive enough to lift the tag, gently, with a single-edge blade. If you overheat the VIN tag, the black background will turn brown & fade.
Once the tag has been safely removed and the frame refinished, it can be reattached using 3M super trim adhesive. You'll need to source replacement drive screws (the rivets). My preference is to use brass drive screws...but that's sure to piss-off the purists ![]() |
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(#5)
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02-21-2008, 01:00 PM
If you need a replacement VIN tag, send me a PM. You'll have to handle the finishing details on your end, including drilling holes for the drive screws. In addition to the suggested sources for number stamping, some locksmiths can do this as well.
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(#6)
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id tag removal -
02-22-2008, 01:00 AM
Thank you all for the replies.
I am picturing these rivets as smooth shank pins that are hammered into mushroom against the steel in the collar. Using the term "drive screw" indicates to me that there could be concentric rings like threads that grab the edges of their holes and no mushrooming is necessary. Which is a correct description? I would help me to visualize what's happening as I pull these things out. Thanks very much! My tag is damaged a bit, but the date print is too important to me to replace with a new one with out the date and the cutting a window into the adhesive tag (racerx's cool solution) to expose the serial number stamp would only show the damaged area and cover the good part. |
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(#7)
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vin tag -
02-22-2008, 09:32 AM
Get one from Jerry's z50 and Stuff and he can print your date of mfg. on it and then you can cut the window for your stamped vin # as long as it's in good condition.That's what i did on mine and it worked great.Jerry charges $25.00 and sends you two of them in case you mess one up.He can print the vin # on it if you like ,but it's printed and not stamped.
Good luck, Dennis |
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(#8)
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(#9)
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02-22-2008, 03:35 PM
Actually, drive screws have helical grooves on the shanks. That's what gives them solid grip, no adhesive required.
For what it's worth, I've seen examples of printed decal-type VIN tags replacements. They looked pretty good, too. However, this is one item where I'd go the extra mile and get a metal replacement with the numbers stamped into the plate, as per original. Can't help but wonder if a printed, as opposed to stamped, VIN could raise the wrong eyebrows at some point. Every factory VIN tag I've ever seen, regardless of make, model, year or type of vehicle had stamped (debossed) numbers. I suspect that this is widely known by collectors & law enforcement. |
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02-22-2008, 04:08 PM
When I painted my bike I lifted the edges enough to tape up the tag and do my paint prep.
When I was finished, I cut two strips of two sided emblem tape and stuck it back down. ![]() (Sorry for the huge image) |